Shambala Festival

Greetings all. 

I have had an amazing week since arriving back in Thailand.  I visited a nice city in northern Thailand called Chiang Rai. I was completely blown away by an artistic wonder called the "White Temple" built and designed by a Thai artist, Chalermchai Kositpipat.  Words cannot describe its magic.  The artist is a very famous architect and painter in Thailand.  Pictures are posted below.

After spending 2 days in Chiang Rai I decided to move on.  I met a woman in Laos that mentioned a nice village north of Chiang Rai.  Moving quite slowely in the morning I decided to stew over my next destination over some tea and breakfast. I was meeting my friend, Adam, in Pai and thought maybe I would go there earlier.  The idea of being in one place for 9 days seemed tempting as I was starting to feel the wear of travel on my body.  A man from France and a woman from China sat down with me and we start chatting.  I gave them some of my belongings- my Laos Lonely Planet book, a shirt and some bracelets.  Both were so happy with their new found gifts as my new friend, Jade, excitedly ran to her room and came back with a shirt.  I was blown away by this trade.  It was a tank top painted upside down of a man's face.  She is an artist and made this shirt at a Japanese music festival in a small town about 4 hours away.  What..... a Japanese music festival in Thailand????  They placed headphones over my ears and I listened to the most beautiful sounds.  They recorded this music only 2 days before at the festival.  It was decided... I must head to the Shambala festival in Chiang Dao.

I opted to take the bus via the northern route for some different scenery.  I was told at the bus station that I could make my 2 bus connections and arrive the same day.  The bus dropped me off at the first stop- only 30 minutes from Chiang Rai.  I did not see a bus station.  Hmmm.... I walked into a building- turned out to be a government building that takes care of land permits.  I walked in with my large backpack and all looked up and stared at me.  I asked if anyone spoke English and a woman approached me.  She informed me that there were no more buses going to Chiang Dao; I had to wait until morning.  She thought we could try one more thing as she loaded me in her truck, left work and drove me to a private bus company.  It was confirmed, I was stuck here until morning.  No problem she says, you will just stay with me.  Myriam is her name.  She is a 38 year old Thai woman that has worked for the government agency for almost 17 years.  She gets moved around many places in Thailand with her job because she is not married with children.  We had a large conversation about this injustice!!  She drove me to her house where I hung out and read for about 3 hours while she went back to work.  When she came home we went to a hot springs and then we shared an amazing meal together.  The next morning she drove me to the bus station.  Such a sweet, amazing, calm spirit.  She even called me the next day to make sure I arrived safely.  I hope she comes to the States someday so I can show her the same kindness and hospitality that she showed me.

The music festival was located about 15 km outside of the small town of Chiang Dao.  I arrived not really sure what to expect.  I rented a tent and blankets and set up my new "home" next to the river and a tepee.  There were approximately 250 people at the festival and 85% were Japanese.  There was a little music during the day; however most of the musical amazement came out after dark.  The daytime consisted of trying to stay out of the sun.  I spent much time in the tepee and met some amazing Japanese people.   There was a stage set up and musician after musician played such incredible sounds.  I have never been to Japan and the only real experience with Japanese culture has been from my good friends, Kanau and Tomoko, from New York.  I was blown away by the generosity, talent and constant sense of sharing that I found.  I sat for hours listening to Japanese songs, Japanese conversation and admired the great sense of style the women had.  To top off the incredible beauty of the experience, there was a free hot springs located just 5 minutes from the festival.  It was such a magical time and I know that I was meant to be there.

Currently in Pai- happy to be back to this beautiful town.  Catching up with Adam and enjoying "doing nothing."  Many of my new Japanese friends have also made there way to Pai and have really enjoyed reconnecting with them.

 

White Temple

White Temple

Laos continued....

Greetings loved ones.  I have much to report on the continuation of my Laos adventure. I think adventure is the perfect word to describe this amazing country. 

After Luang Prabang, I travelled alone to northern Laos.  I decided to take a boat to Nong Khiaw- a ride that was supposed to take approximately 6-7 hours along the Nam Ou river.  I arrived first thing in the morning ready for some amazing scenery.  They guided the passengers down to the rivers edge and pointed for us to board the boat.  No.... this must be the boat that will TAKE us to the "real" boat I thought.  It was a long, skinny boat with two wooden benches facing each other.  The best part... they tried loading 24 of us in this tiny vessel.  I just sat there- preparing to just go with the flow.  A few people spoke up-- exclaiming how there were too many people on this tiny boat and it was very uncomfortable.  The captain of the boat smiled and said he did not speak English.  Of course he didn't- I would not if I were him.  Then the German man told him that he would understand if he threw him over the boat-- the captain just smiled.  After about an hour of waiting on the boat they started unloading 4 people.  Yup, they had too many people on the boat.  You have to have a serious sense of humor travelling in Laos or you will absolutely loose your shit. 

After about two hours on the river, the motor made a very loud bang and died.  We floated to the shore where we all got out of the boat to wait.  We did not know how long we would wait- as there was no communication between the two staff and us foreigners.  I felt incredibly lucky though-- we happened to wash up on the shore hosting the most beautiful tree.  I climbed up to the base of the tree and took a small nap under its magnificence.  Two hours later a part arrived; they fixed our boat and we were off.  We got on and off the boat many times due to low water- we had to all pile in the back of a pickup truck once and had to hike a short ways another time.  The boat was then able to get through the low water and meet us on the other side.  The trip was sooooo unbelievably beautiful.  Luckily it was a full moon because we cruised in the dark for about 1 1/2 hours with no light.  Of course the boat has no light- where is the fun in that??  But we arrived safe and sound after 11 long hours of travel.  I could barely feel my ass and my back had about 30 new knots- but I was happy I did it.

I left the next morning for an hour boat ride to Muang Ngoi.  A small village only accessible by boat.  I enjoyed it, however it was still on the tourist track.  I needed more remote.  The next morning I hiked about 2 hours to a very small village with my friend Mohammad- a friend I met on the long boat journey.  Mohammad is from Iran.  The first and probably the only Iranian that I will meet on my travels.  It was so interesting learning about his country.  We became really good friends.  I am his first and only American friend and he is my first and only Iranian friend-- pretty cool.  We stayed with a Laos family that operates a home stay.  It was amazing!!  A friend of his had recently hunted a deer so I got to eat venison.  I was in heaven!!  They prepared beds in their small bamboo home and charged less than $1.00 a night. There are so many pigs, roosters, chickens and ducks in the small villages.  Roosters woke me up almost every morning in Laos - even in the city!! 

The next morning Mohammad and I got up bright and early and started the hike back to the bigger village around 6:30 am.  Got on a boat for an hour, took a 4 hour bus ride, immediately boarded another bus for 5 hours.  I was exhausted when I arrived Muang Namtha!  I took a day of rest in Namtha and signed up for a three day trek- I was scheduled to leave the next day.  I was a bit nervous to go on this trek, as this is the first real hike since my knee surgery.  To make matters worse, my hiking boots were in Bangkok- good place for them:)  I was unable to find suitable shoes in the city so hiking in my chacos was my reality.

There were 4 other people on the trek-- an Australian man, an English man and a couple  from Oregon.  They were all lovely people.  The Oregon couple and I hit it off really well.  They tried recruiting me to move to their beautiful state:) We had two guides- Pit and Ponn.  Ponn became my trail angel.  I always hiked in the near- as I liked to really take my time on the trail and Ponn was always behind me.  The trails in Laos are nothing like the trails in America.  You know the nice switchbacks that get you gradually to high elevations-- nope-- you just hike straight up and straight down in these jungle mountains.  Ponn made me two lovely bamboo trekking poles.  I got a nice blister after the first day. I was holding onto that thing for dear life!!  The first night we slept in the jungle.  It was so much fun!!  We ate off banana leaves and had the most amazing meals.  Every meal was served with sticky rice- a staple for Laos and an assortment of other veggies and meats.  I laid in bed the first night- body aching- feet aching- wondering what I got myself into.  Twisting my knee in this jungle was not an option; not exactly the easiest evacuation plan!  The second day was even more elevation gain and loss.  We travelled through a few villages ending up in a darling village along the river.  We had the best time hanging out with the kids and watching all of the animals.  

It was really fun hiking with Ponn- he had been a guide in this jungle for over 10 years.  I would hear him hiking behind me- then poof- he was gone.  He went to collect some plants for our meal, got the banana leaves for our tablecloth and chopped down some bamboo to make us each a shot glass.  The last day my feet really took a beating... so many blisters.  I was still in great spirits- it just felt soooo good to be out in nature again for many days.  Literally in the middle of nowhere.  I love it so!!  My fellow hikers all commented on how impressed they were at my speed and lack of complaints considering the state of my poor feet.  I gave Ponn a nice tip and a huge hug at the end of the trek.  He was my support, my doctor and good friend.  I am so happy and relieved that my knee did great.  It has to start getting ready for Nepal...yippee!! 

And now you wonder, where am I??  I am back in Thailand- oh how I missed this country!  I will post again soon with more.  Sorry for the long and rambling posts...  Sending lots of love and hugs.

The long boat ride

A sweet family I met in the village on the trek

The beautiful tree that I was so blessed to hang out with while the boat had some issues.

My sweet American friends bought me a rose for Valentines Day.

So much for the most beautiful feet in the world....

Ponn and I

Angkor Wat and Laos

Hello loved ones.  I hope all is well. Time in Angkor Wat was unbelievable.  The energy in the ancient temples are indescribable.  I spent two entire days exploring the area, including watching sunrise over Angkor Wat.  The bus ride from Kep to Siem Reap, Cambodia was sooooo pretty.  It was even complete with the bus breaking down about 1 hour from my destination.  It was no problem- we just pulled over and I got to watch the sunset on the side of the road while they banged away at the engine.  The bus started working about 30 minutes later. I did not open my book the entire 10 hour journey- I am just enamored with Cambodia.  I will come back some day. 

I experienced confirmation once again that the world is very small.  My friend Lulu and I were sitting in our guest house using the Internet in the lobby.  She was checking her facebook and said that her old friend from Sweden was in Siem Reap only one week ago.  She turned around and in walked her friend, Jessica.  It was so crazy!!  Jessica and Andrew, an English friend, joined us on our journey to Laos.  The travel from Cambodia to Laos was soooooooo long.  We could not go from Cambodia straight north to Laos because of visa issues so we entered through Thailand.  We traveled for 32 hours using 3 tuk tuks, 1 train and 3 buses.  We were exhausted when we arrived in Vang Vien, Laos.  It was not my favorite place, as it is full of tourists and drinkers so I was eager to leave.  We arrived in Luang Prabang yesterday.  It is such a great place!!  We visited a waterfall today and saw some of the countryside.  It is really beautiful and mountainous here- I feel right at home.  I am finally posting pictures- yay Kelly!!  Sending much love across the miles....

my elephant friend... what a beautiful animal

Karen, Kelley, Gof and I during our thai cooking course.  We are now professionals!

In Pai, Thailand

Monks in Cambodia

The countryside of Cambodia.  My 10 hour bus trip was such amazing scenery.

The bus broke down about an hour away from the destination.  It was fixed soon:)

At Angkor Wat

Angkor Wat

Angkor Wat

Angkor Wat

Angkor Wat

Lulu, me and Jessica at Angkor Wat

The sweetest little Cambodian girl.  She came running up to me holding my hand.  I wanted to take her home with me:)

Angor Wat