Monday, January 23, 2012

Life

Hello all. It has been a crazy couple of weeks. My friends from America-Kelley, Gof and Karen came to Thailand for two weeks. We had a great time together. They met me on  ko phi phi island where we snorkeled, lounged on the beach and ate some great food. We then flew to Chiang Mai. We did a Thai cooking class at an organic farm about 45 minutes outside of the city. It was such a beautiful spot with lovely people. We shopped at two amazing night markets.  There is nothing like the night markets in Chiang Mai-- so much to see, smell, taste and touch!!  We then headed north to a darling town called Pai. I fell deeply in love with an elephant but decided it was much too big to fit in my pocket and take with me. We were definitely kindred spirits (at least I thought so).  My friends and I spent our last night together in Bangkok.  I got up at the crack of dawn to take the bus to Bangkok while Kell, Gof and Karen flew.  For $18 you get a 10 hour bus ride, three pastries, one water, one orange juice, one strawberry milk, one green drink and lunch.  They just kept giving me things- I could not believe it!!  We had an incredible dinner at an open air restaurant on the water. Kell was so sweet and treated us all to the feast!  It was so lovely to travel with friends that know me well- there was a lot of inside jokes, laughter and exploration of Thailand. 

My reality has changed dramatically from just four days ago. In am currently in Cambodia. It is such an amazing county. I spent two days in Phnom Phen. I met a man from Norway on the plane and shared a tuk tuk with him to an area that I wanted to stay. It was so great to meet Sam, the tuk tuk driver-- he drove me all around to find a good place for me to stay. It is the Chinese New Year so it has been crazy busy. Finally we found a dorm room. No, that is not good enough for you, he exclaimed. He found me a safe, clean and affordable place to stay with a room and bathroom all to myself:) 

I hired Sam to drive me around the next day. He came to my guest house in the morning.  I had tea and breakfast with him.  I took one look in his kind eyes and began to cry.  I learned some sad news of a friend the previous night and did not sleep well.  He calmed me and told me that life has many windy roads and it was ok to be sad.  I was so grateful to have him there at that time. 

I learned many interesting things from Sam as we spent about 5 hours together that day. He explained that many marriages in Cambodia are arranged. He told me his story.... his parents requested that he come visit them one day. As he walked up to the house he knew that something important was happening; there were many pairs of shoes outside. That was the day he met his wife. He knew her for 3 weeks before their wedding. He has three beautiful children.  Sam advised me to stay single.  I giggled and told him that I still believe in love.

I had a really intense time in Phnom Phen.  I visited the Killing Fields about 15 km outside of the city.  It is a mass grave sight from when the Khmer Rouge ruled from 1975 to 1979.  It was one of the most humbling, somber, unreal experiences of my life.  Sam told me he lost his brother in a village due to this cruel regime.  I later visited the prison located in the city.  This country has experienced so many years of brutality and war.... I am in awe of the people.  They are always smiling, laughing and have been unbelievably kind to me.

The next day I walked to a shopping mall about one block from my guest house.  I was sooo excited-- a movie theater!!  I watched a Cambodian movie called Lost Loves.  I was really happy for the Cambodian couple that was in the theater with me-- it would have been even more emotional to watch the film all alone in such a large theater:)  It was a film about the Khmer Rouge. 

I arrived today in a small town called Kep.  I decided to come here for a few reasons:

1.)  Not many tourists
2.)  They have fresh crabs to eat
3.)  They have pepper plantations that host the most delicious pepper in the world

I walked to the crab market today.  It was my favorite dining experience so far.  It was unbelievably busy- with people selling octopuses, shrimp and crab.  The crab fisherman (actually most were women) were catching the crab right in front of me.  I walked to the waters edge and said I would like to buy some crab.  One woman grabbed my hand directing me to "her crabs."  Her friends were trying to steal me away from her- but I remained loyal:)  I bought 6 crabs for $3.00 and paid $0.50 to have it cooked.  I then went to buy some sugar cane juice from a woman that pressed it in front of me.  She offered me a seat, gave me some napkins and showed me the best way to open the crab.  I am a spoiled American when it comes to eating crab-- I am usually armed with special crab utensils.  She was the sweetest. 

As far as traveling in Cambodia-- it has been very full-on.  There is so much happening- I am completely aware of each moment- it is great.  I am so in love with this country.  I appreciate this opportunity to be plopped into these lovely peoples lives for a short period and share with them. The three most common questions:

1.)  Do you want a tuk tuk?  My answer, no thank you
2.)  Are you alone?  My answer, no- my boyfriend is right around the corner
3.)  Are you married?  My answer, no- but I am planning on getting married in 2 months time :) 

It is just easier that way.  I think I have been called a beautiful lady and beautiful woman by both men and women more times in Cambodia than in my entire life put together back home.  The children are even more incredible-- they are always smiling, waving and shouting out hello.  So nice.  I am heading north in a few days to meet up with my friend Lulu.  I will post again sooner this time:)

 

Thursday, January 12, 2012

A Story... Of a Thai Man

New Years Eve- Khao Sok National Park.....

The evening began with food, Leo (my favorite Thai beer) and good company at the bungalow bar I was staying at.  After a few hours, Mathias and Manuela (my German friends) and I decided to venture down the road to see how other people in the village were celebrating their night.  We came upon a bar with lively music and lively people.  We sat down to enjoy another Leo anticipating the midnight cheer.  I noticed a Thai man standing near the bar speaking with the bar owner.  There is something interesting about this man I thought.  He stood up and walked to the dance area and began performing a fire show.  A while later Manuela and Mathias decided to head home to bed.  The left me with kisses and hugs and wishes for a safe night. 

I sat on the stool, sipping my beer observing the many interesting people surrounding.  After a few moments the Thai man approached me and we began talking.  He told me he was a tattoo and oil painting artist living in the village for the last eight months.  He left and came back with two picture books filled with his oil painting art.  Such beautiful work-- most paintings were of Buddha.  I asked him how long he had been an artist.  Thirteen years as an oil painter and seventeen years as a tattoo artist he answered.  Strange, I thought-he looked to be in his early twenties.  How old are you, I asked.  He chucked and answered thirty-seven.  He left Thailand to travel to Laos and Cambodia some time after the tsunami- he lost a lot.  He is the first Thai person I met to live in another country that was not married to a foreigner. 

He continued to tell me that when he was twenty he was getting into some trouble with fighting and drinking and his parents sent him to a monastery as a result.  He explained to me that every man in Thailand is expected to go to monastery at least once in his life- from one week to a lifetime.  Imagine a society where there is a peaceful, spiritual community you can escape to if you stray from a life path less desired than hoped for.  After a short time in the monastery, his sister called him with sad news of his papa.  He had fallen very sick.  Later that night he sat with Buddha--- papa has to care for mama, sister and brother- If he is stays healthy, I will give you one year here at the monastery.  A couple of days later her heard the good news that papa was going to be OK.  He stayed one year.  When it was time for him to leave, his mama came to him and said "you gave papa one year, you give me one year."  He stayed one more year.  After the second year was up, he was preparing to leave when the head monk came to him and said "you gave your papa one year, you gave your mama one year, you give me one year.  So he stayed one more year. 

What a lovely human with much light.  It was nice to hear his story and to start the new year with such an interesting spirit.  Meeting people and hearing their stories has been my favorite part of my journey- I am blessed.

Sunday, January 1, 2012

Happy New Year!

Hello all.  I hope the Holidays found everyone happy and healthy.  Christmas in Thailand was really nice- although I was sad to not have added Christmas carols to my ipod- lucky for my friends around me:)  Time went by so fast- my heart was heavy the day I left Ko Phayam.  One day rolled into the next- waking up, drinking mango shakes, hanging with the girls, walking the beach, enjoying great food, occasionally mixed with a party full of dancing and falling asleep to the sounds of the sea.  I stayed in Ko Phayam until December 27th- beautiful thing about traveling for so long and solo- I came to the island with the intention of staying one week and stayed one month.  Spending Christmas on the island was like a home away from home.  Aeau made such an amazing dinner and Cha went to the mainland to get a Christmas tree (fake of course).  I enjoyed stringing the lights and singing "Oh Christmas Tree"  over and over and over again:)  A Thai Reggae band came to the island on the 25th.  It was really fun- I danced my little heart out.

I took a bus to Khuraburi- about 100km south of the island where I stayed the night before catching a boat to Ko Surin Island.  The bungalow I stayed at was a little rough around the edges but the owners were so sweet.  I rented a tent, snorkeling gear and booked my boat ticket from them.  I walked to the fish market with the owner and bought fresh seafood.  He took it back and cooked the most beautiful red snapper and prawns I have ever had.  The boat ride took about 1.5 hours.  Approximately halfway during the trip we spotted dolphins not far from our boat--- I counted roughly 10.  It was soooo amazing- we hung around for a bit watching them.  Ko Surin is a national park where the only accommodation on the island is camping and a few park bungalows for rent.  Long tail boats leave the island twice a day and take you to nearby reefs for snorkeling.  I saw a reef shark and many colorful fish.  The water surrounding the island is the most stunning turquoise blue.  I saw a 2 foot long lizard and many monkeys.  I am currently at Khao Sok National Park where I am taking it easy in the rain forest.

Thinking about all of you lovely beings often and hope all had a great New Years.

Waiting for the arrival of my friends, Kelley, Gof and Karen-- yippy!!  I will load pictures again soon.  I don't have my camera with me now:)